The region of the Languedoc lies in southwest France between the Atlantic to the west, the Mediterranean to the east and bordered by the Pyrenees to the south. This is Cathar country, one of the most inspiring, dramatic and evocative landscapes in Europe. It is a wild and mysterious region known for its isolated hilltop fortresses, walled medieval cities, castles, cathedrals and the Cathars. The people now known as the Cathars belonged to a popular rebel Christian mass movement that created its own structures and beliefs at a time when the Catholic Church viewed any dissent as heresy punishable by death. The Cathars were a simple people and the movement spread rapidly throughout southern France. The framework for their belief was based on the Sermon on the Mount and its message of simplicity and humility, a contrast to the power and rich ostentation of the Catholic church at that time. Cathar ideology offered an attractive alternative message and lifestyle and as such drew the ire of the established church and the powerful ruling elites. Like many alternative movements they were persecuted and eventually hounded to extinction by royal armies and the Inquisition.

The region to the west and south of Carcassonne was the heartland of the Cathars and the site of the bloody 20-year, 13th century crusade against them undertaken by the French Crown and the Catholic Church. King and Church won of course, and wiped out a large percentage of the local population in the process. It is estimated that between 200,000 and 1,000,000 people were massacred during this period. The crusade brought to an end the independence of the southern regions and destroyed the more democratic and inclusive traditions of the poetic Troubadour culture. The slaughter that took place 800 years ago remains a key reference point in local folk memory and it is from the destruction of 20,000 souls in the city of Beziers that the famous quote by the religious 'commander' of the crusade, Arnaud-Amaury...is derived: "Kill them all God will recognize his own.."

To escape the bonfires of the Establishment the Cathars build several extreme castles perched on vertiginous peaks in places where, when you see them you cannot believe that anyone could survive for one night let alone several months or even years. The Cathars made their last stand in these castles and for the southern peoples of the Languedoc they are a symbol of their opposition to northern rule. Although the region is peaceful now, echoes and ghosts of the Cathars are still present in the wind that blows through the fortress ruins perched far up high in the mountains.

Our three-night tour into Cathar country will be based near Quillan, right in the heart of Cathar country and a short drive from the castles of Montsegur, Puivert, Puilarens, Peyrepertuse, Thermes and Queribus. This hilly region of the Languedoc is known as the Corbieres. Rising northeast of the Pyrenees, the Corbieres are France’s forgotten mountains. Remote and grandly empty they are wild, rugged and secretive and their unique rocky scenery provides wildly picturesque landscapes of resilient garrigue, tiny vineyards, hidden valleys, woodlands and delightful hamlets and villages, as well as the high pointy hilltops upon which perch the stony ruins of the castles long ago abandoned by the mystical Cathars. The Cathar castles form a chain of ruined fortresses that stand on the top of limestone outcrops and can barely be distinguished from the rocks on which they were built. These strongholds overlook dizzying sheer drops and offer superb views over the surrounding garrigues and sun drenched vineyards.This is a region for people to hide in. If I were running away from something or someone, I would come here. I like places where your appearance in the village cafe will startle staff unused to customers. As a famous wine producing region there would always be plenty to drink!

The Cathar heritage remains omnipresent, and has given rise to several mystical - skeptics would say dubious - Dan Brown-style ideas. Then again, in these isolated zones, mystical legends seem totally plausible. East of our accommodation is the hilltop village of Rennes le Chateau, the parish of Berenger Sauniere famous for his role in the legend of the Holy Grail. This tiny mountain village of no more than 200 inhabitants lies at the heart of the bestseller "The Holy Blood and the Holy Grail", and the "Da Vinci Code". This fairly ordinary village, albeit with great views, hides secrets so mysterious that it has become Conspiracy Central for the universal interest in hidden treasure, Mary Magdalene's French connection, Jesus Christ and UFOs.

Within a short drive of our accommodation is the historic walled city of Carcassonne, a World Heritage Site. "Restored" in 1853 its faked exterior looks like a northern fairly tale castle with pepper-pot towers and drawbridge, however it is extremely photogenic and a visit is well worthwhile. The old town has double ramparts with 53 round towers. Inside is the Basilica de St.Nazaire, founded in the 11th century, and the narrow cobbled streets are lined with shops selling every kind of medieval memorabilia you could possible wish for. Perfect gifts for friends back home.

Our tour will visit all these places, as well as many beautiful villages, stopping for some spectacular local landscapes all punctuated with free wine tastings

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